Across Australia with the Ghan
From Wikitravel
Contents
This article is an itinerary.
Across Australia with the Ghan is a train ride straight through the heart of Australia, from Darwin to Adelaide.
[edit] Understand
Named after the Afghan camel trains that used to service the Outback, construction on the original Ghan from Adelaide started in 1878, with Oodnadatta reached in 1891 and, after a thirty-year break, Alice Springs in 1926. A separate but unconnected track from Darwin to Katherine in the north was also completed in the same year.
Unfortunately, the original Ghan was twisty, narrow-gauge and built straight through many valleys prone to flash floods that washed away tracks and bridges. A decision was thus made rebuild nearly all of the line in standard gauge, over 100 km to the west. The new line to Alice Springs opened in 1980, and the remaining 1420-km section across the continent to Darwin opened in 2004.
[edit] Prepare
Any way you look at it, the Ghan is expensive. The standard "Red Service" Daynighter reclining seat is $716 from Darwin to Adelaide, although the price is cut in half if you book a prepaid, non-refundable, non-changeable "Rail Saver" fare or use a child, backpacker or YHA fare. A "Red Service" twin share sleeper cabin is $1312/800 standard/concession per person, with no Rail Saver available. Don't expect luxury: the trains used are refurbished 1970s-vintage American models.
If you fork out $1973/1357, you can upgrade to "Gold Service", which has single cabins (shared shower), twin cabins (shower ensuite) and includes all meals in the dedicated restaurant car. Add another $1000 on top, and you can get a double-sized "Platinum Service" cabin.
[edit] Get in
Darwin can be reached by plane from all major Australian cities and a few international destinations like Singapore, but does not have any other train services.
Adelaide is well-connected by air and rail, with the Overland south to Melbourne and the Indian Pacific west to Perth and east to Sydney.
[edit] Go
This itinerary assumes you start from Darwin and head south, but obviously it's also possible in the opposite direction.
From Darwin (0 km), there is a departure every Saturday (9 AM) throughout the year, and an additional service on Wednesdays (10 AM) between May and October. The three-day, two-night journey takes around 48 hours from end to end.
The station is a fair way from central Darwin, about 20 minutes drive. The railway's primary purpose is freight, and the line goes straight to the port at East Arm, without passing through any built-up areas. Dedicated buses connect between the Darwin Transit Centre in Mitchell St and the rail station for an additional fee. Taxi's are possible, but expensive. There is no scheduled bus.
From Adelaide (2979 km), departures are on Sunday 12:20 noon throughout the year and Wednesday at the same time between May and October.
[edit] Katherine (312 km)
The Ghan stops here for around five hours, with an optional guided "Whistle Stop Tour" available. The old railway from Darwin to Katherine stopped in central Katherine, and is now a tourist attraction. You can walk the old high level railway bridge across the Katherine river following the old alignment. However, is around 10km from the old station to the new one, so if you want to see Katherine, the tour may be your best option.
[edit] Tennant Creek (945 km)
Passed through in the middle of the night in both directions, stops only on request.
[edit] Alice Springs (1420 km)
Alice Springs is the former northern terminus of the Ghan and the largest town by far en route. The train stops here for around four hours, long enough for a quick peek around town. The station is on the edge of downtown, a couple of blocks walk to the Todd mall. Many people opt to break their journey here for a few days and visit Uluru, about 400 km away, but there is plenty to do for a few days in Alice and surrounds for a few days even if you don't venture to the Rock. Alice Springs has all the services to make it possible.
[edit] Kulgera
Is a roadhouse in the desert.
[edit] Chandler and Marla
Chandler is a tiny settlements where the the Ghan intersects the Stuart Highway. Marla is a purpose built highway service centre with nothing else there except the highway, train line and the station. Seeing the highlight of any visit there is to see the Ghan when it passes through, and the desert stretching off into the distance, if you are actually on the Ghan looking at the desert stretching off into the distance, best to stay on board.
[edit] Coober Pedy (Manguri)
By prior arrangement only, the Ghan can stop at Manguri, 42km away from the town of Coober Pedy. You must have prearranged a pickup from here, since the location is very remote.
[edit] Tarcoola
At the former mining town of Tarcoola, the Ghan merges with the Indian Pacific line coming in from Perth to the west.
[edit] Kingoonya
[edit] Pimba
[edit] Port Augusta
Railway buffs may wish to get off here and ride the Pichi Richi Railway [1] 78 km to Quorn, running along the original Ghan track and using original Ghan equipment. Departures are limited, especially outside the winter season.
[edit] Port Pirie
[edit] Adelaide (2979 km)
The end of the line — unless you switch trains and continue onward to Perth, Sydney or Melbourne!
[edit] Stay safe
[edit] Get out
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